Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
